The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a buddy baked an exquisite double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by an exquisite winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mix of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the proper instance of a brief listing of the best elements coming collectively into one thing way more than then sum of their components.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, that means that you could add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized aspect of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a spread of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so if in case you have it (and it is best to!) make sure you have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her unique had chard. I take advantage of a lot of scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a type of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up approach again in 2005 when she wrote in regards to the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply quite a few questions right here that may pop up. The ingredient listing for this panade couldn’t be less complicated, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Sort of Bread for this Panade?
The quick reply is an effective, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That mentioned, I can even argue that lots of that is private choice. Should you bake sourdough at dwelling, by all means, use that. Both of these selection will probably end in a properly structured panade with good distinction between a few of the elements. The bread selection is such a giant deal on this recipe, every one will impression your finish end result immensely. I realized the arduous approach after I used a extra industrial sourdough loaf to make the panade one evening – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured stoop. You need the bread to place up a battle and maintain a little bit of pressure. Not go to mush altogether. The very best model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old home made sourdough made with wild rice in it. 
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve carried out crustless variations earlier than. Should you determine you’re keen on an excellent oozy, silky panade, go crustless. Should you like your panade to have extra construction, maintain your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Finest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth we have now round or within the freezer (defrost). I really like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however in the event you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a hen broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I take advantage of a Completely different Cheeses on this Panade?
You’ll be able to! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that one in all my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I desire barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with at the very least a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too delicate.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I usually make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which every other fillings that I would be capable to pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private choice. After you bake panade a couple of times you’ll begin to get a way of what type you like. You’ll be able to go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe under goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It appears to be like so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely stunning. It’s the final word consolation dish that I hope you take pleasure in as a lot as I’ve through the years. Due to Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
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